Although only 7,962 ft. at the summit, Mount Olympus rises steeply from the Pacific Ocean only 12 miles away to the West creating the wettest place in the 48 contiguous states. The Hoh rain forest is so wet with 12 feet of rain a year, and with so little daily sun, every surface is draped with pale. clingy, grey-green moss; it makes for a really creepy landscape!

On the Eastern side of the mountain, a rain shadow allows sunny fields of lavender, golf courses, and retirement communities to expand into the former ranches outside Sequim. Even more fun, these diverse environments are just short ferry rides from Victoria, BC, Canada and Washington’s Puget Sound islands, where you may see orcas from the ferries…

We enjoyed riding parts of the rail/trail conversion, “The Spruce”, 122 miles of easy cycling….except for the leg we picked the first day. When you see no vehicles with bike racks at a trailhead, think again about your chosen bike trail. The only section that is not paved is of course the most beautiful; it runs alongside the aquamarine waters of Lake Crescent, encircled by mountains. Narrow, steep, washed out with streams and mud, and gnarled with roots, it is really more of a hiking and horse trail, definitely too slippery for hybrid tires. We turned around after two miles of frustration, and worried about the two disabled cyclists with wide, three-wheeled, hand pedaled bikes. Fortunately, they had a lot of support volunteers to lift and carry them as needed. They had ridden the whole trail from Port Townsend and suggested we do the prettiest PAVED leg, between Sequim and Port Angeles. Ah….that’s the way to ride!

We had a beautiful campsite overlooking the Straits of Juan de Fuca, staying at a former military base providing cool armament sites, surfing, scuba diving, and sunsets….and fresh berry pies! The last time we visited Salt Creek campground here on the Olympic Peninsula was to do our first ever RV sewage dump in September 2012 and our first blog on zippitygoglobal.com. 70,000 miles later, we are really skilled at that sewage dump task!

As California shrivels in its’ 5th year of drought, and Seattle bakes in its’ second summer of record high temperatures, the Olympic Peninsula is so inviting: mild, sunny, and lushly green. However, it is the first summer in almost 40 years of visiting the most far western edge of the continental U.S. that I have seen the Olympic Range devoid of snow, a very disturbing sight.

She’s a beast of a mountain. She is demanding and wild; she doesn’t need whips and handcuffs because she looms so large with an enormous white glaciated cap. At 14,409 ft., the highest peak in the state, you can’t take your eyes off her. She demands your attention from everywhere in the State of Washington. Whether you are out on the Olympic Peninsula at the farthermost western point of the contiguous U.S., in a skyscraper in Seattle, on a ferry out in Puget Sound, or in the wine country near Walla Walla, if she is within view, I guarantee that you won’t look anywhere else.

The only way I can communicate her massive presence is to compare two photos shot at the same location in Paradise, WA: the picture immediately above of the surrounding jagged high peaks to the south, with a photo at the top of the blog, shot moments later just turned 90 degrees north to Mt. Ranier’s southern flank. See? She doesn’t need a riding crop to make you behave!

Everyone can hike this monument and see waterfalls and rainbows, basalt columns, and lush greenery with abundant wildflowers due to the “Wonderland Trail” that encircles the mountain. It sits below the snow line usually by May, with hundreds of access points. Starting short hikes here with her 5 year old in 1999, Sally has taken small bites of this trail on the Northern, Eastern, and Southern flanks over the years. Steven’s mind was blown over and over, as the trail gave him peeks of the mountain frequently through the trees.

That experience was deeply enhanced as we met 90-year-old Bronka Sundstrom on a hike/bike on our last day. Hiking her usual 12 miles with her 92-year-old friend and NP Park Volunteer, Wally, we learned that she holds the record as the oldest female to summit Mt. Ranier, at the young age of 77. She is also a Jewish Holocaust survivor from the Nazi invasion of Poland when she was 14. She snuck around finding food for her family before they were captured and died in concentration camps. She is so smart and exhibits a loving, positive and forceful personality, a huge personality busting out of her tiny 90 lbs frame. She didn’t even report any fatigue at the end of her 12 miles. She says the trick is to, “Go Slow…but Go”. What a mentor! We exchanged contact information and will stay in touch. It is rare to meet a humble person as big in spirit as the mountain towering over us.

She made us feel almost as young as standing before this massive slice of Douglas Fir found in the park, seeded in 1293. Each of the circles represents points in history: Marco Polo’s voyages, Kublai Khan’s invasions, the French Revolution, the Declaration of Independence, etc. If my darling younger husband Steven needed to have a jolt of perspective as a newly minted 60 year old, he got it here on Mt. Ranier. He plans to come back yearly for his annual spanking!

Starting any trip from Bellingham is a delight. A mix of well preserved victorian buildings and and modern, arty builds, strung along a busy waterfront, makes this a tourist destination in itself. Add a nice food scene, the lovely Western Washington College with 30 outdoor sculptures, and nearby Chuckernut Drive and Larabie State Park for hiking, there’s a lot to do, even staying in town. However, Mt. Baker looms and the Northern Cascades call…

After some hikes on the southern flank of Mt. Baker, we explored the Northern Cascade Mountains, home to over 300 glaciers representing 1/3 of those remaining in the lower 48 states. These are the steepest mountains in the U.S. and Highway 20 leads you through them in style.  Lots of beautiful lakes, too cold for swimming yet, but they make nice reflections of the surrounding mountains, provide electricity to Seattle via the hydroelectric dams below on the Skagit River, and make this a kayaker’s paradise. Next time we plan to stay at the lakeside North Cascades Environmental Learning Center (great food!) and take a mushroom foraging and identification class…..emphasis on the ‘identification’. Furthermore, the 270 archeological sites here trace the human presence back nearly 10,000 years.

The heat is building up even at this elevation, and without the tree cover or cloud cover, the steep hiking is very hot, and UP UP UP on countless switchbacks. Best to sit by a creek for most of the day because….we have neither a working generator to run the motor home air conditioner, nor dashboard AC as we head east to cattle ranches and cherry farms in our next leg on the eastern slopes of the Cascades. The foodie town of Twisp (we just can’t say it without lisping it…”Twithp”….) is a cross country haven in winter but way too hot in summer, even with a visit to their municipal swimming pool! The answer is an RV park to plug in for 50 Watts of electricity for the AC, instead of our usual dry camping, while we wait for a new condenser for the AC. Why not plug in at The Wenatchee River Bluegrass Festival in Cashmere, WA?

Not only is there a concert every day with professional musicians from Tennessee, Georgia, and Kentucky, but the absolute best part…we are surrounded by campers who almost all seem to pluck something…and really, really well. Even the teenagers in camp are excellent musicians. Check out mandolin player, 19 year old Tristan Scroggins on a music search sometime!!!! Watch your back David Grisman! We are loving the free sharing of music and culture in this campground with all manner of rigs, from the behemoth rock star buses to families in tiny tents. Everybody is welcome! It reminds me to express our gratitude and joy today that the U.S. Supreme Court made a decision yesterday to include everybody who wants to marry, regardless of state of origin in the right to legally marry. About time to finally ring out Freedom on this issue! Bravo!

The ethic in the camp is that no one can join a music circle without a nod of invitation. but everyone is expected to pull up their camp chair and set for awhile or wander off to one of the 30 or so other impromptu jams taking place in the campground. One night I was up to 1 AM watching this amazing circle of teenagers jamming in the photo above. Obnoxiously good for youngsters!

We lucked out in being parked next to two couples from Portland ( which has a huge old tyme music and bluegrass scene apparently) who have played together for over 30 years. Every hot player in the park wandered by (see below) to join in at some point. Sometimes a fiddler, a dobro player, mandolin, banjo, bass or guitar, we just lay in bed at night with the windows open, enjoying a private concert of the best musicians in the park. Unfortunately, the condenser replacement repair didn’t give us any dashboard AC so we are racing for the high ground to find cooler weather…on to the slopes of Mt. Ranier, the tallest peak in the state and an active volcano!

We think of ourselves as somewhat fit because we bike, run, swim, and play tennis on a regular basis. Ha! We became so aware of the extra pounds we’re carrying around when we had to haul it 6.8 miles up a steep climb to get to Easton glacier on the Southern Flank of Mount Baker, and then back down again. 3500 ft. elevation gain…..Ow! Ow!

Our first day hike on the “Scott Trail” was steep but only 6 miles round trip to this view above of Mt. Baker…accessible just over one little ridge. We were shocked at how exhausting the next day was on the “Railroad Grade” trail was as we stumbled back to the car. Our rig, “DeeDee” proved her worth as we were able to take hot showers, eat a hot meal, and fall into bed right at the trail head. Awwwwwww….

It helps that the hike is so beautiful and wet and green, with lily ponds at the entry (and mosquitoes), followed by creeks and frequent peeks at the Volcano.

We finally had to walk the last 1/2 mile to the glacier…. 12 inch wide sliver of a trail on a knife-like ridge with lovely wildflowers tumbling down the access side to a wide meadow, and a sheer scree drop off on the other side, favored only by the large, whistling families of hoary marmots.

The relief at hitting the first edge of the glacier! Sal just had to make a snow angel, and hang out in the white stuff for awhile…or is she just unable to move? Meanwhile, the real mountaineers, with ropes and cramp-ons, headed on up to the deep crevasses. We turned around, climbed down the knife ridge and back into the lush greenery. It is a gorgeous walk even when you can hardly pick up your boots!

F

Well, the rail trail conversion anyway, on our bikes. With an enormous and historic logging industry in Oregon and Washington, came trains to move the timber. Enormously heavy, the rails could not exceed a 4% grade, perfect for cyclists. As timber and industry rails fell out of use all over the country, “Rail/Trail Conservancy” groups, arranged public and private funding, to remove the cross ties, add gravel, signage, and best of all on some trails…..trestles safe for cyclists, pedestrians and horses! The conversion of rails to trails hastened with the federal government passing legislation promoting the use of railbanking for abandoned railroad corridors in 1983 which was upheld by the U.S. Supreme Court in 1990. This process preserves rail corridors for possible future rail use with interim use as a trail.

“Whoooo….Whoooooooooooo………”, we chug chug out our best train sounds as we cross the many trestles on the 26 mile rail/trail conversion between Sedro Wooley and Concrete. As it sits on the western slope of the Northern Cascade Range, the views when you clear the lush forests and creeks, and reach open meadows, is of snow capped peaks, wineries, and herds of bison and elk.

We loaded our bikes and took a free municipal bus in Sedro Wooley up to Concrete. The very nice locals told us of some aggressive feral dogs on the trail and gave us a canister of mace. We never saw the dogs but couldn’t get enough photos of these goofy llamas (also featured image) that had been shaved for the summer leaving oversized furry heads and lower legs.

With the best ever gluten free bakery, “5B’s” in Concrete fueling us before the ride, we lingered, enjoying our chat with Em, the proprietor. She has Celiac Disease, and has raised twin boys also with the disease. Instead of making her sons feel they couldn’t have baked treats, she became a fabulous baker.

 20 years later, she opened this cafe/bakery when one son left for a physics degree at Stanford and the other one to study robotics. Eat your pastry and get smart!

Puget Sound is a huge tidal basin with 450 islands at low tide, sheltered by Washington’s Olympic Peninsula and Canada’s Vancouver Island. The Washington State Ferry that serves the islands, including a stop in Canada, is the largest ferry system in the world. It is extremely efficient and completely free for pedestrians and bicyclists traveling between islands.

Lopez Island, more agricultural and less hilly than San Juan and Orcas Islands, is an angler and sailor paradise, not to mention forager, farmer, kayaker, and bicyclist heaven. As a San Francisco bicyclist I was very impressed at the drivers on Lopez Island. They all “shared the road” with bicyclists. They also wave…at each other….at strangers….every car….every contact. Usually a laconic one finger salute (NOT THAT one finger salute, the index finger kind!) but they do it at every contact with bikers, drivers, and bicyclists.

After biking to Spencer Spit, we tried to join a wild food foraging class taught by the Northern Cascade Institute this exceptionally low tide weekend, but they were too full. We then had a good excuse for sitting at the water’s edge watching a HUGE bald eagle grabbing lunch out of the water in front of us. Too bad I was too slow to get him on camera. We contented ourselves with tennis and a visit to the farmer’s market, where there were four week old goats to pet. We got to see two young musicians we had met the night before at a chamber music concert, perform a variety of music on their violins. The school system is small on the Island. Only 18 students attended graduation this year, but over 600 members of the Island community attended the graduation. Now that is a show of support!

Lopez is also quite literary. The designated, waving honoree in the lead car in the 4th of July parade is NOT the mayor, but the Librarian. The Library is a beautifully renovated building with fireplaces and lots of natural light; it has won the NY Times and Publisher’s World awards for programming several times in the last ten years. Two well known authors (Garth Stein and Pam Houston) are giving readings at the Library this summer, and one of my book group’s favorite writers, Ruth Oseki, will read at the local bookstore next month.

We found wonderful art and sculpture in little studios all over the Island. Driftwood art and other “found materials art” is the basis of much of the public art. One local had filled the beach in front of her house with animals and birds (see feature image). We also attended an early music concert in a local church featuring instruments from Beethoven’s era and performance by three members of the Victoria Symphony orchestra traveling around to small venues performing chamber music this summer.

Add in beautiful sunsets, rain forests with moss and fern for gorgeous hikes, an Amish farmer plowing his fields with draft horses, and small town/Island charm, and you have a recipe for a good fantasy about moving here. In fact, we met at least 10 couples here looking at property to create a summer home.

What do you think Steven would rather have for his Big 60th birthday…in addition to public ridicule?

1) A poke in the eye from the big butt of a 10 ft tall woman on a swing? Or a….

2) Big poke in the eye from her boob while she does a lap dance on him? So many birthday choices, so little time. Maybe one day soon he will forgive me….

Although we didn’t get an invitation to the Chinese Banquet, we enjoyed the parade of 25 of these huge roasted pigs being delivered. We had ringside seats for the Lion Dance….(6) two-tiered lions dancing on elevated poles…

….and then RAN for cover as we were positioned directly underneath the dangling rounds of chinese firecrackers.

Some birthdays are just more memorable than others! I know we all wish the sweetest and most darling man on the planet, a very happy and memorable birthday….and one last goofy portrait, Steven going incognito as an Arab. Fortunately, Steven is a very forgiving man.

In this week before Purim, we find ourselves perhaps, among the tights and pink tutus in San Francisco….? Maybe we are in Mexico with the Caballeros…

…and with Dia de Los Muertos celebrants?

No, we are in Tel Aviv on the promenade with all the other party go-ers like the astronauts and police officers with kipot. Only in Israel, and only in this very young and arty, big beach city.

Incredible shopping for hip designer fashions (Ayala Ball necklace)…

…stylized, modern and bauhaus architecture…

…and quirky sculpture around every corner. Keep your eyes peeled, high and low!

We stayed near Old Jaffa, the Arab port and flea market, which provided the famous “Dr. Shakshuka” restaurant, shopping, music and great people watching. We needed the many, soothing, chaise lounge “islands” we found in shaded bicycle/pedestrian strips in the City Center. They invite you to grab an expresso and a gelato, and stretch out for a nap…Ahhhhh.

The green public bikes are affordable, available at stops all around the City, and are even electric powered so you don’t have to work too hard. The only drawback is motorcyclists and bikers ride fast on narrow sidewalks among pedestrians, and park on the sidewalks blocking the way. We happily block their way on the sidewalk when we stop to enjoy local musicians jamming with shofars and drums.

We love Tel Aviv’s juxtaposition and richness of diverse cultures; Israel is a very young country, only 67 years old and its population is also young and tech saavy. There are more Start-ups in Israel than in the entire United States. Although the conflicts with the residents of the occupied territories is very real, and the threats to Israelis on public transportation, in malls, and on the street is real (separate attacks by Palestinians on Israeli citizens and soldiers occurred every week we were in Israel, and if you Google “Sderot” a town 1 miles from the Gaza Strip, most of the images are of rocket caches and launches from within the Gaza Strip targeting Israeli civilians in Sderot), yet the Israelis have adopted a fatalistic philosophy, because they say the violence is always possible and there is no way to predict or control it.

Israelis minimize the sense of risk and tell us that always knowing where a bomb shelter is within 40 seconds of a rocket siren, is just built in to their consciousness. We don’t buy it; it is a stressful awareness. Every resident serves for three years in the National Armed Services. Even when they go home for the weekend, they must carry their uzis. Even when they complete service they must return for reserve training. Our airbnb.com host grew up in Sderot, served 10 years in the National Defense and is now in medical school, yet reports weekly for reserve training. The entire country is always prepared to fight for the survival of the State of Israel. So, why be surprised that the drivers are angry and aggressive, the service providers are sullen and have no concept of guest relations/customer service. Israelis laugh at this and say such rudeness is not because we are tourists, that they are treated with disdain by merchants as well because, well, “Israelis are just brusque”. With real estate and services quite expensive, and very low salaries (although not much unemployment), Israelis, Jewish and Arab alike, are stressed. Both communities feel that they cannot personally make a difference. What will be, will be….

Everyone we talked with wants Peace….but feels that war is inevitable. 3 weeks, 3 months, 3 years, it will come. Everyone states the need for a Two State solution. Most people do not believe it will occur in their lifetimes. However, after winning his fifth term, Netanyahu announced an intent to create a two state solution this term! He knows how serious it could be for Israel to lose U.S support.

The biggest challenge for Israel is remaining a Democracy, meaning one person=one vote. The Israeli Arab population is growing faster than the Israeli Jewish population. Making it easy for Jews to make aliyah will not make enough Jewish citizens in the long run. There must be a safe haven for Jews in this anti-Semitic world and as Netanyahu made clear in his address to the U.S. Congress, Israel will survive with, or without U.S. support. We are confident that the tiny State of Israel (the size of New Jersey) will survive as it is the only country that guarantees Jewish immigration. We wonder however, whether a Democratic State of Israel can survive in the years to come as Muslims become numerically the dominant population. Stressful indeed.

When my son visits Israel this coming Winter Break as a Birthright participant, he can wear his  patriotic underwear while he engages in his and Israel’s favorite activity, arguing about politics.