Monthly Archives: October 2016

DIA DE LOS MUERTOS: DENVER BOTANIC GARDEN

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What a great holiday! Candy skulls, costumes, running around in the dark collecting loot, and maybe getting scared (without really being in any jeopardy), and often on a school night!

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The Denver Botanical Garden invited citizens to create alters in the gardens. One artist explained that she had spent every summer on the beach in the South at her grandmother’s so she filled hers with seashells, marine life images, and sand art.

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There was embroidered, welded, inlaid, tiled, and lots of paper cut out works of folk art around every corner. We appreciated the coke bottle cap art most of all…

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Through the ghoulish expression, comes an outpouring of love, vibrancy, and community. During our year residing in the State of Nayarit, Mexico in 2009-2010, Jacob and I observed families in the graveyards during the week before the holiday, cleaning up, planting flowers and decorating gravestones in preparation for the day when the families would come with picnics, boom boxes and joyous hearts to celebrate all day. Children were dressed up in their Sunday Finest, playing chase among the gravestones.

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Embracing death…what could be more natural? What better way to remove our existential fear of death? Give a party and dance to it!

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We especially liked the mixture of Madonna imagery with the ghoulish. Even Frida Kahlo, another Madonna Icon, was featured with cats in this crochet art. Happy Halloween! Go score some candy from your neighbors…in costume, of course!

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MINING & RANCHING: COLORADO III: SAN JUAN SCENIC BYWAY

 


Best little town in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, Ouray welcomes with hot springs, bakeries, and the best small Western Museum. The exhibits are exceptionally diverse yet compellingly personal. Debbie Reynolds shot, “The Unsinkable Molly Brown” on the Alpine Mountain Ranch, run by Marie Scott, a single, self made female cattle rancher (in the far right above). Debbie is belting it out with the cattle dog, while Marie probably contemplates buying up more land. She had a reputation for “buying any bucket of dirt”, accumulating $100,000 acres worth over $30 million in her life.


The mining industry provided work for all…if the conditions could be survived.


We played tennis in Silverton, finding little else of interest there as it exists as a tourist trap at the north end of the Silverton-Durango Railroad line. Durango is the Southern Terminus of the “Million Dollar Hwy” on the east side of the San Juan Mountains. It on has galleries, gorgeous old Victorian homes, parks, a beautiful college, and a wonderful riverside bike trail.


Heading north of Cortez, up the western side of the San Juans on the “Last Dollar Highway”, provides beautiful (free) camping by the Anima River, usually filled with campers and kayaks at higher water. We had it all to ourselves in late Autumn.


We stopped in Telluride, with big expectations befitting a town with many popular music, film and art festivals year round. It felt like a tourist trap with a lot of traffic. Even Tom Cruise fled, sellings out last year. Their mountains are beautiful so it may be great in the Winter.


Having finished our Autumn tour of the Colorado passes, we will head home via Arches NP and Great Basin NM. Steven has only been at home in Albany CA for 21 days in eight months, since last February. Suddenly, we just can’t wait to get home!


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Location:SAN JUAN SCENIC BYWAY

DANCING ASPEN: AUTUMN IN THE ROCKIES, COLORADO PART II

 


Having blasted through our iciest, highest, and most northern hikes and pass crossings (Rocky Mtn NP (14,439 ft.) and Independence Pass (12,096 ft.) in our first two weeks on this Colorado Autumn road trip (Colorado Blog 3/14/16, Part I), we looked forward to slowing down the pace. Mt, Kepler above and the “Top of the Rockies Skyway”, is our reward.


We lucked out and have had mostly warm sunny days for the last week through our next two passes, Mt. Mclure and Mt. Kepler. The Pass over Mt. Kepler is muddy gravel but the lack of traffic invites frequent stops for Big Horn Sheep and Coyote sitings, picnicking, shooting photos, and contemplating the wonders of nature. It was our favorite part of this road trip so far.


ASPEN live in biological mini communities so the ones that cohabitate drop their leaves all at the same time. You see slopes with clusters of survivors waiting for their perfect time to drop en masse. In the meantime they shiver and dance like they are being electrically shocked. It is like being on psychoactive mushrooms watching them.  Then they drop; sometimes in a stiff wind it appears to be bright yellow hail, and every dirt side road is covered in the aspens’ quarter sized yellow leaves.


The Black Canyon of the Gunnison River is a gorgeous 3,000 ft deep “grand canyon” with sheer walls. We hiked the Rim trails and slept at the very quiet and small North Rim Campground filled with young, buff rock climbers. One of the rangers complained of the climbing deaths here and wished the National Park Service would ban it. I guess it depends how you feel about letting the public assume responsibility for their own risky behavior. I say let them climb…but require helmets.


We have completed 3 of 5 Colorado Scenic Byways popular in the Fall. We missed Cottonwood Pass this time as it meant repeating a long road instead of driving and hiking loops to see new areas. No matter. We will be back! The photo below is an IPhone “water color application” to our photo of the approach to the North Rim of the Black Canyon.


We have one more Colorado Scenic Byway before we head west. We are told it is always snowing by this time in Southwestern Colorado but this next loop is plowed in winter so we feel no need to rush. Also the hunting season started a few days ago and we have been advised to stick to the National Parks for our hikes where all hunting is banned. We will likely break out our folding bikes, our tennis rackets and golf clubs, and hit some nice restaurants…in addition to strolling in the small towns along the way.


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Location:TOP OF THE ROCKIES SKYWAY

LATE AUTUMN IN THE PASSES: COLORADO, PART I

After a summer as Campground Hosts on the Oregon Coast, we were hungry for MOUNTAINS! We fled 103 degree temps during a two week visit with Sally’s mom in Los Angeles for…early winter in Rocky Mountain National Park.

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The National Park Service struggles mightily to keep Trail Ridge Rd. open over a 12,000 foot pass at the base of Long’s Peak (14,000 ft) for as long as possible in the Autumn. Unfortunately we didn’t time it right as winter conditions kept shutting down the road. We camped on the West side of the pass where the elk were still in rut, and on the East side for two great hikes in the Park….with a long drive around the outside of the park to string them together.

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We fled Boulder after enjoying a long walk by their central creek, as the growth, traffic, and expense was surprising; it is the effect of Boulder’s identity as a high tech corridor…and Google building a new campus there for 1200 new employees. Instead we stayed downtown in Denver to visit the fabulous Denver Art Museum and the Botanic Garden.

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Wow! The Botanic Garden is like a visit to Butchart Gardens in Victoria, B.C! No wonder so many Californians are moving here for the bike lanes and sophisticated city combined with easy access to the mountains.

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We headed southwest to tackle three 10,000-12,000 ft. passes that close soon for winter. On the way over Independence Pass, we stayed for free at a Forest Service area that had a potty with a fabulous view…

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We cleared the Pass and hustled on to the next one, with a free hot spring soak on the Crystal River…

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Will we make it over our next two passes before the snow falls in earnest? We are hustling to get to those with  muddy dirt/gravel roads first. Even if the roads are technically still open, without AWD, they just are not going to be available to us.

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