Monthly Archives: April 2013

OCEAN STATE: NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Founded by Roger Williams after exile from the Massachusetts Bay Colony Puritans, this state has many remarkable “first” and “oldest” institutions. Fortunately, most of them are in Newport, Rhode Island, which is a very nice place to visit. The historical societies in town have worked hard to certify many buildings as historic monuments, and pride of ownership keeps most homes here spit and polished, and maintaining their original architecture externally. The current residents are proud of their independence and tolerance too. How many small towns in the U.S. have erected a park to memorialize Jewish patriots?

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However, we were saddened to learn that Rhode Island is the only New England state that has not passed a same-sex marriage law. Maybe this year, their defiant history and good ethics will give them the strength to do what’s right.

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Larry Ellison, CEO of Oracle has joined the Newport “elite” like Vanderbilt, and Roosevelt, to enjoy the grand mansions on Bellevue Avenue, showcasing 35-75 room “Cottages”, traditionally used for one month each summer. Doris Duke’s “Cottage” (above) and the featured image are the gates along the Cliff Walk in front of the mansions.

The America Cup Sailing Race was run (and consistently won by the U.S. for many years) out of Newport. Townspeople are still hoping that San Francisco’s bid will blow up, and it will return to Newport. Being from San Francisco and thrilled to see the Race in our Bay, we hope all the greedy San Francisco real estate barons (including Ellison) can work it out with the Mayor and Supervisors so We, The People …can exercise our right to watch those skinny airborne hulls and gigantic sails scream by our boats and bridges!

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We attended Shabat services (Modern Orthodox) at the Touro Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in the country, and the only surviving shul from before the Civil War. We also walked the dog around the grounds of the Redwood Library and Athenaeum, the first lending library in the country.

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Of course, we had to raise an ale at The White Horse, the oldest tavern in the country…

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…and we felt free…to be…you and me, enjoying our right to raise a tankard!

 

 

DAS BOOT: SUBMARINE WARFARE IN GROTON, CT

If one of your favorite movies was Das Boot, a tense German fictional film about a remarkable submarine crew during combat operations in WWII, you would love a visit to the Naval Submarine Museum next to the US Submarine Base in Groton, Connecticut on the Thames River. Outside the museum is this two man Japanese “Type A” sub, used in Pearl Harbor and throughout the war, fortunately without much efficacy.

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We climbed in and out of the hatches in the first nuclear sub in the American Fleet, the SSN Nautilus. SS denoting a sub, the N denoting nuclear powered. We played with the periscope, putting our rig in the sights for a torpedo launch. Fire in the Hole!!!  Able to remain submerged longer than diesel-electric subs, she travelled geographically well beyond the limits of other subs, including a trip to the North Pole in 1958. Her propeller system was too loud to truly run silent with the advent of improved sonar soundings, so she was alone in her class. The Ohio class is what the US runs now, which are remarkably larger. This image shows the difference in circumference between SSN Nautilus and the current Ohio class.

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A great exhibit featured the development of  underwater listening systems. The “Poing…Poing….Poing” sound of the sonar creates so much drama in movies involving the hunt for a sub. It also became outdated by the coastal “Sound Surveillance System (SOSUS)”, that could pinpoint by triangulation the location of Soviet subs. The Soviets didn’t know we had this technology and we used it to our advantage, especially during the Cuban Missile Crisis, capturing two of the three subs heading for Cuba. Because of an American spy working for the Soviets, John Walker, they learned our secret, yet fortunately near the end of the Cold War. However, that technology, decommissioned beginning in 1992, is used for good animal science now: whale tracking by scientists trying to preserve the species (according to the military).

As opposed to the testing for the improved underwater sound stalking technology (LFA Sonar) which is so loud it allegedly causes whales to stress out and beach themselves (according to Steven and other whale advocates).

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12 years ago, my son, my brother Rick, and I toured the USS Growler, a small sub,  even more tiny and claustrophobic, tied up next to the Air Force Carrier Intrepid, all part of a museum in New York City Harbor. There you can see the Blackbird (first jet to fly at the speed of sound (Mach 1).  It can reach Mach 3, or 33 miles per minute. It remains the fastest jet existing although built in 1964, although rocket fueled jets can exceed these speeds. The most interesting part of these exhibits is chatting with the Veterans and current soldiers who work with this war-oriented technology on a daily basis, and then to consider how important these technological advances have been as they have morphed into our everyday technology.

…and then there is the propaganda that was developed in that period, good for a laugh anyway.

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“We can do it!” Wasn’t that Obama’s first presidential campaign’s slogan? I wonder if  Rosie the Riveter got some credit….

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LONG ISLAND: IT’S NOT JUST A SASSY ICED TEA

Neither Steven nor Sally had been past the airports and Brooklyn on Long Island. Wintry conditions kept the crowds away so we could explore without the rumored summertime nightmare traffic. We started in Glen Cove with our personal tour guide and pal, retired builder Bob. He showed us some of the legendary great homes on the North Sound which has the third highest per capita income in the US. Check out the Train Station/Post Office.

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We enjoyed walks by the Peconic River, as we camped by it near Riverhead, at the fork of the North and South split. The Hamptons and Fire Island were close by so we stopped at a cafe to observe the very high end shopping area. A nice town for dogs, but I don’t think you get to live there unless you own a French Bull. We much preferred the small and sailing oriented Sag Harbor. It came closest to our choice of a quiet place with a nice community to visit and go bicycling, if we lived in Manhattan, not the la-di-da beach scene.

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We eventually got to the far eastern reach, on the South Shore, the Montauk LIghthouse, our featured image. Block Island is visible further to the East off shore, and had there been seasonal ferry service available, we would have gone. The Nature Conservancy is stewarding 40% of the Island, and puts it on their top 12 locations for visits.

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Another very inviting part of the Island is the “Wine Trail” and agricultural region at the far end of the northern arm. From here, at Orient Point, we boarded a ferry to New London, Connecticut. It is always a pleasure being on the water and this one and a half hour ride, on a freezing and windy day along the Connecticut Coast was no exception. It made the brief journey up the Thames River feel positively balmy! Cruising past this remarkable New London Harbor Buoy, we became excited about entering the sailing center of the East Coast.

FIVE BOROUGHS OF FUN: NEW YORK CITY

Five boroughs make up NYC: Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, The Bronx and Staten Island. They are unique governments, like counties. Most of what west coasters think of NYC is Manhattan as the others are “up-island” like The Bronx, or off island. Served by ferry, train, bus, bike routes, 12 bridges, 286 miles of track and countless tunnels, there is no place in the U.S. that can compare to NYC’s public transport system. In fact, 70% of our Nation’s use of mass urban transportation is serving the NYC demand. We routinely use ALL of the above when we are here, even if it means just a round trip on the Staten Island ferry as pedestrians, to get out on the water.

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Taking the Circle Line Tour to circumnavigate the island allowed views of all the boroughs and to see all of its’ bridges.  We watched commuter trains rumbling overhead and waited for the swing bridge to open for us, after freight trains have passed. We passed barges filled with treated sewage hauling to Brooklyn for further treatment into fertilizer, requiring some patron to yell in English, “No Shit!”  Clearly other English speakers on board, but otherwise we heard more foreign language than English, so we knew we were experiencing the ultimate NYC tourist experience…and it was wonderful!  Our dock was pleasantly situated next to the Space Shuttle (on exhibit on the deck of the aircraft carrier Intrepid) and the Carnival Splendor. The Splendor was the Carnival Ship that was towed to shore adrift in Mexico 2 years ago with the ‘Ronald Reagan’ aircraft carrier as the escort. My brother was the Senior Physician on board for that cruise and noted that the Splendor towered over the smaller aircraft carrier, as it does at port in NYC.

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All NYFD images, including the fire boat, make us grieve again for the victims of 911. Having visited Ground Zero a year ago, we chose to aimlessly wander through NYC’s neighborhoods. In search of a dive bar in Hell’s Kitchen, we found next door, “Poseidon Confectioners”. We wandered in, bought some Greek pastry, and returned after a beer to buy more to take home to the family. Imagine custard wrapped in layers of filo dough soaking in honey….still warm from the oven…the ultimate comfort food! We learned later it has been in business since the 30’s and is quite famous. Somehow, finding a great place by serendipity really increases the fun and adventure.

We explored Brooklyn on foot with my darling filmmaker godson Erik. We ran into the lead actor on Erik’s first feature film, “El Camino”, who was in Brooklyn shooting a comedy show with Amy Sedaris. Am I the only one who is still shocked seeing actors in person, when they are out of character, especially given his clean-cut, dark suited appearance in the film, and his scruffy bearded presentation on the street? By the way, “El Camino”, a fabulous road trip film with noteworthy cinematography, can be rented on Netflix.com, and was reviewed very favorably as his Pick-of-the-Week at the Chicago Sun Times, by the recently deceased film critic Roger Ebert. It also features Elizabeth Moss who is in several TV shows you may recognize including West Wing, and 7 seasons of Mad Men.

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Erik steered us toward “Lucky Dog” around the corner from his flat near the Williamsburg Bridge, for our afternoon beer. What a pleasure to sit in the sun with Lety and all the other neighborhood dogs to enjoy a dog friendly saloon with a back patio. We all felt like lucky dogs.

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It was such a lovely Spring day, with flowering trees and bulbs, we headed up to the Brooklyn Bridge to cross to Manhattan. The Bridge was thronged with pedestrians and bikes. The pedestrians seemed in too happy a place to pay attention to their jeopardy as they sauntered casually into the bike lanes, in spite of horns, bells, whistles, and shouts from the bikers. Clueless. Amazingly, no one got hurt.

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The next day winter descended again. Other than one bizarre 85 degree day a week earlier (hot and humid like summer), Winter in the Northeast is still sitting on us, with 22 degree temps last night. It made it possible for two attackers to bundle up and carry their bombs to the finish line at the Boston Marathon without causing attention. We will head to Boston after a week on Long Island with hopes of donating blood to the Boston Red Cross in support. We discussed this violence against innocent people with seething anger. Yet, seeing that sweet 19 year old perp’s face, made me sad…also so grateful that my 19 year old son had great male role models supporting his healthy ambitions. He focused on education, caring about others (including his mother!) and pursuing his interest in American Politics with non-lethal ideas on how to repair our Nation (although he did mention that meeting with our Congressional Aide in Washington DC was a big fat waste of time!)

DON’T CALL IT JERSEY!

The New York Times instructed us that “Jersey” was a disrespectful diminutive for the Garden State. We don’t feel offended if someone refers to our big city at home as “Frisco”, but not wishing to offend, we are looking for a cortito (nickname) for a state that has a lot of cool stuff going on. What’s not to like about the least expensive fuel cost we have seen yet…do you like $3.13 per gallon? Humm Baby!

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We have enjoyed the Jersey Shore starting at Cape May, a thoroughly Victorian town with well-maintained “Painted Ladies” just like in “Frisco”.  Our first taste of frozen custard (like a soft serve but richer, like mousse on a cone…yummmm). Not a wildly dog friendly beach, even in the dead of winter, but awfully nice to sit in a rocker and stare at the sea, and do a little bird watching at the far end of the Cape. There is clean-up from Sandy ensuing, as we will see throughout eastern New Jersey and Southern New York City.

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A marked contrast is Margate, further north on the Jersey Shore, formerly mob real estate, now just high end beach houses and one silly elephant named, “Lucy” who lets you sleep in her belly overnight! We heard that Atlantic City had a skid row quality, overrun with pawn shops. Au contraire, bustling with shoppers for the outlet mall running behind the casinos, it is a jumping place for a bachelor party for sure, but it cannot hold a candle to Nevada gambling/shopping/spa/entertainment eg. save your money for a trip to Vegas. Otherwise, grab your pals and head into the New Jersey Pine Barrens, the first State Forest in the nation.

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With only 8 campers in the 160 sites, the Bass Lake trails were empty. We didn’t kayak as the sign, “Beware: Thin Ice” was still posted and it was still very wintry. We headed on to Montclair, about 45 minutes from NYC to spend a wonderful week with our New Jersey Martins. Although we mostly sat around cooking and eating together, catching some of their favorite comedy videos and TV shows (Dr. Pol, the country vet show rocks!), they took time off of work to take us up to The Lakota wolf/bobcat/ fox preserve in Sussex.

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These lovelies have all been raised in captivity and can never be returned to the wild. They live twice as long in captivity so there are many elderly animals among the 18 wolves (timber and arctic) in 4 acre enclosures, with room to run. However, the only wild energetic bursts of energy were from the adolescent wolves. As wolves have a pecking order and are always trying to climb the ladder, these pesky younguns had to be moved to their own large enclosure to keep them from beating up on their elders.

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We also wandered around Hoboken, sitting magnificently on the water across from Manhattan. Great Seafood and Italian restaurants awaited us, along with a monument to the first professionally organized baseball game, between the Knickerbockers and New York. Just a ferry ride across the Hudson to NYC, and a fabulous view across the water. A cool place, made even more fun hanging out with family there.

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Of course, much eating requires some walking, and we enjoyed daily walks with the dogs in the 406 acre Eagle Rock Reservation, a block from our family’s home. Lety chased a deer out of our sight, but the huge amount of deadfall caused by Hurricane Sandy created foliage easy for a deer to leap, and tangled the dog, who got frustrated and came back. Good deer! Good dog!

GOT THAT LOVIN’ FEELING, BRO: PHILADELPHIA PA

We love big cities, and 6th in the nation Philly, is a big one. It has the largest urban park (Fairmont), and the most outside murals and sculptures of any U.S. city. These folks are out running, biking and especially sculling on the Schuykil River, in chill winds and using the urban bike routes for commuting. Add the Barnes Museum (tiny! need reservations in advance!) in its’ new setting, and the 11 acres of exhibition space in the Philadelphia Museum of Art (reasonably priced, too), and you’ve got a city to embrace.

IMG_1206It also has the required, “defined ethnic neighborhoods”. Check out the Italian Market and Little Italy. It has an alleged “mob” restaurant, Deluca’s, perhaps like the former Patrissi’s in Manhattan…eg. don’t eavesdrop too closely on neighboring tables’ conversations as there have been three verified mob hits here. Of course, South Street seems to have every type of food, but locals and tourists alike line up down the street at Jim’s Steaks for a classic Philly CheeseSteak with Onion and Cheese Whiz on fresh soft and crusty rolls. Waiting in line in front of the cook station allows you to watch the mountains of lean, thin slices of beef, char on the grill next to carmelizing onions. The wait just whets the appetitite…then after eating, you want another, but are saved by the long line. Everybody vows to come back here again when they return to Philly, and it looks like most of those in line are a return audience.

IMG_1240We loved riding the 22 mile bike path along the Schuykil River as it is lined with charming boat houses from the 1920’s, modern sculpture, old bridges, and competitive sculling. This sculpture of champion oarsman Jack Kelly, father of actor Princess Grace of Monaco, commemorates three Olympic victories in individual and team competition in two Olympics.

IMG_1172You too can feel like a “Contendah” by hanging around at the Rocky sculpture at the foot of the Philadelphia Art Museum stairs. It really brings out the complete goofiness of the adolescent male, dancing, jumping around, pumping the air…including the 57 year old one that I hang out with.

IMG_1217The view from the top of these stairs down to City Hall is extraordinary, the City at your feet.

IMG_1204It is a city with a high Walkability Score, and walk we did with Lety, the Mexican Dog, as there is a self-guided tour of 17 of the outdoor murals in City Center. This was our favorite….

IMG_1228How nice to wander among Colonial Architecture and Street Art, munching a hot salty pretzel slathered with hot spicy mustard, another Philly institution. When real food is called for, there are lots of taverns and gastropubs with fresh mussels cooked a variety of ways to match the extensive ale and stout collections. When you’re done, there is always one of the two rivers to stroll along…..and my artist sister Laurie, a lifetime resident here, to make recommendations and welcome us to town whenever we’re here.

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FLYIN’ HIGH IN BIRDLAND: BALTIMORE, MD

Okay, who out there knows why Baltimore (local dialect dictates the proper pronunciation to be: “Ball-ee-more”) is known as Birdland?

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Orioles and Ravens are the baseball and football teams here! The city is also known as “Mob City” because this is the 2nd biggest commercial port in the Mid-Atlantic region and was therefore run by the Mob. “The Wire” was my favorite  television series because each subsequent year addressed another of the city’s problem areas while following up on the earlier issue. The first year it was poverty, gang violence, and drug dealing. The second year they added the Port (and Mob) due to a container full of dead Russian prostitutes. The following year City Hall corruption was added to the continuing story lines, followed by the educational system. Great show. Rent it on Netflix if you haven’t seen it yet.

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The City spins artists have slathered every bus, train and billboard with the name, “Charm City”…yecccch!  It is a quite charming city with the frontboard (super thin fake brick) row houses, waterfront attractions including the Aquarium, water taxis, free museum (the Walter), Chesapeake Bay sailing, and a gorgeous skyline of steeples, monuments, skyscrapers, and art installations. It’s real charm however comes from the 60+ distinct neighborho0ds, many filled with specific ethnic cultures. We especially loved Little Italy where the restaurants outnumber and outsize even our San Francisco North Beach. What’s not to like about a real Italian bakery with Tiramisu, cakes, dipped Biscotti, almond cookies and gelato? Vaccaro’s need do no advertising except the simple statement, “The place for desserts and more”.  Fells Point and Canton were cool too with a very high number of neighborhood taverns and “cheap and cheerfuls”, small ethnic restaurants, and the community oriented Patterson Park.

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We were shocked at the size of John Hopkins Medical Centers, way bigger than UCSF at Parnassus and Mission Creek combined. Hopkins, a Quaker, was an early abolitionist and supporter of President Lincoln. As Maryland remained one of the four Northern slaving states until the 13th Amendment, Hopkins was detested by the State’s Elite. His Trust ensures that people of all ages, genders,and socio-economic position be provided medical services. His Board of Trustees has had to struggle with this requirement in a time of accelerating health costs. The John Hopkings Business School is a gorgeous angular glass skyscraper abutting the new Four Seasons Hotel overlooking the East Harbor, behind this dramatic sculpture, “Katyn Forest Massacre”.

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Poland, having been partitioned and dominated by Austrian, Prussian and Russian forces until Independence in 1918, was cruelly invaded by the Nazis and Soviets in WWII. Stalin ordered all of the educated, the “elite” who were a threat to Stalin’s terrorist reign, to three Siberian prison camps, and killed most of the survivors in mass graves in the Katyn Forest. As Stalin denied this, and the Brits and Americans accepted his placement of blame on the Nazis, it was years before it was investigated competently by The Red Cross. The final remains were uncovered only in 1991.   The world finally knew the truth after 50 years. This sculpture with the hanging bodies represents the ritual murder of 20,000 prisoners intentionally “trussed” like hogs by Soviet NKVD before being shot and buried in mass graves. The image of fire is designed both to pay homage to democratic efforts, and to cleanse and heal wounds. We found this monument way more moving than our usual images recognizing our heroes. Below, the first column dedicated to President George Washington, preceding the one on the Mall in Washington, DC.

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A STEP BACK IN TIME: HARPER’S FERRY & GETTYSBURG

How often have you read stories regarding the history of the United States, and wondered what it might have been like to actually be there?  We build a mental picture in our minds filtered through our imaginations from our reading, or we see grainy pictures of those who lived in those historic times, but we can never really grasp the true magnitude of what it might have been like. My perception of history changed completely the day I stepped out of our RV at both the Harper’s Ferry National Historical Park and the Gettysburg National Military Park, the crown jewels in the National Park Services.  It was a rather intense to experience American losses and suffering at the hands of a civil war by walking the hallowed grounds!

At the Harper’s Ferry, a little neck of land tucked between the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, where three states (MD, VA and WV) meet, our interest there was the 1859 raid on Harper’s Ferry by the abolitionist John Brown.

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On the night of October 16, 1859, Brown, 59 years old, staged his most daring  raid, an assault on the federal armory in Harpers Ferry, Virginia, which housed an arsenal of more than 100,000 rifles and muskets.  Calling his raiding force, the “Provisional Army,” Brown’s group of 22 men included three of Brown’s sons, a fugitive slave and four free blacks.  Brown’s goal was to seize the arsenal, distribute the guns and muskets, mobilize anti-slavery forces, incite slave insurrections and organize raids against slaveholders across the South. Brown and his men initially took control of the armory, but within 36 hours, U.S. Marines under the leadership of future Confederate generals, Colonel Robert E. Lee and J.E.B. Stuart, stormed the facility, killed several of Brown’s band and captured Brown and the remaining raiders. Brown was taken to nearby Charles Town, then in Virginia, where he was charged on three counts: treason, murder and conspiracy to lead a slave rebellion.  After a seven-day trial and forty-five minutes of deliberation, the jury found him guilty on all counts and sentenced him to death.  Ironically, the actor John Wilkes Booth witnessed his execution and would later assassinate the President Lincoln about five and a half years later.

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At that time, Brown appeared as a Biblical Samson-like figure who sought to tear down the institution of slavery through an incredibly bold, self-conscious of self-sacrifice.  His death may have indeed brought searing moral indictment of the slave system, ultimately leaving the south with little credible response but to secede from the union and engage in Civil War. This event is now considered one of the catalysts of the U.S. Civil War (1861-1865). Four years later, the battles at Gettysburg and Vicksburg, arguably changed the course of the war as notable Union victories.

After winding our way 58-mile northwest drive in 25mph arctic wind, to the historic Gettysburg battleground in Pennsylvania, we took advantage of  the 24-mile auto tour route within the historic Gettysburg National Military Park in Pennsylvania. The muddy icy grounds we experienced were likely extremely wearing for both Union and Confederate soldiers. Mile after mile of cannons, statues, monuments, and plaques along the ridges held by the Northern Virginia Confederate Army provided a palpable sense of the masses of American resources in men and arms committed to the war. Every unit that fought here is memorialized, with numbers of casualties listed: the small numbers are oddly more powerful than the large, a unit of some dozens of men, half or more of whom fell. Units were organized regionally then, so when names are listed alphabetically, it’s brother after brother, like some kind of family roster, unit by unit along the Union and Confederate lines. Numerous cannons are placed in the battle’s many artillery positions, and statues of significant participants are strategically placed at the sites of their heroism.

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Here’s a quick summary of the most famous 1863 Civil War battle: it was the “high water mark” of the Confederacy; the turning point of the war; and 51,000 Americans were killed in this three-day battle.  To put that horrific number into context, a bit more than 58,000 Americans were killed in the entire 10-year Vietnam war.

In 1863, at the beginning of the most famous Civil War battle, Gen. Robert E. Lee concentrated his full strength against Maj. Gen. George G. Meade’s Army of the Potomac at the crossroads county seat of Gettysburg.

On July 1, Confederate forces converged on the town from west and north, driving Union defenders back through the streets to Cemetery Hill. During the night, reinforcements arrived for both sides.

On July 2, Lee attempted to envelop the Federals, first striking the Union left flank at the Peach Orchard, Wheatfield, Devil’s Den, and the Round Tops with Longstreet’s and Hill’s divisions, and then attacking the Union right at Culp’s Hill and East Cemetery Hill with Ewell’s divisions. By evening, the Federals retained Little Round Top and had repulsed most of Ewell’s men. Little Round Top is particularly fascinating. This hill, on the Union left flank, was possibly the most important position on the battlefield, and standing atop it, I can see why: it commands a view of the entire valley, and much of the battlefield. A statue stands atop a large rock, of Brigadier General Gouverneur K. Warren, the Union chief engineer, looking out across the valley. During the battle, General Warren discovered that this hill was undefended, and saw Confederate forces ready to attack the Union flank; he rushed to find soldiers to hold the hill.   I can see what General Warren saw: the tree line where the Rebels were within sniper range. Confederate sharpshooters using scoped rifles could shoot a man on this hill from a concealed position. Suddenly those big rocks look very important.

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Standing at the bottom of Little Round Top, I can see what the Rebels were up against. It’s not a large hill: it rises about 150 feet from the valley floor. But the rocky terrain makes it formidable. I wouldn’t want to climb this slope with heavy armaments, even without anyone shooting at me. This was an important hill indeed.

During the following morning of July 3, the Confederate infantry were driven from their last toe-hold on Culp’s Hill. In the afternoon, after a preliminary artillery bombardment, Lee attacked the Union center on Cemetery Ridge. The Pickett-Pettigrew assault (more popularly, Pickett’s Charge) momentarily pierced the Union line but was driven back with severe casualties. Stuart’s cavalry attempted to gain the Union rear but was repulsed.

On July 4, Lee began withdrawing his army toward Williamsport on the Potomac River. His train of wounded stretched more than fourteen miles.

But, in a larger sense, we cannot dedicate, we cannot consecrate, we cannot hallow this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it far above our poor power to add or detract.  Well said, Mr. President Lincoln.

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ALL MEN ARE CREATED EQUAL: CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA

…..unless you’re a slave. Charlottesville, with the University of Virginia designed by Thomas Jefferson, and Monticello, his home, are testaments to the man’s creative genius. As the theorist of the American Revolution, architect, scientist, diplomat and statesman extraordinaire, he had to have a large worldview. He loved all things Classical and French, yet he continued to own 200 slaves throughout his life, including 4 biological children from enslaved housemaid, Sally Hemmings. Ignorance and narcissism is bliss; he could not have attained success in all he embraced without inherited wealth from the profits of slavery, and a staff of enslaved artisans to maintain it. The Museum at Monticello celebrates and castigates this thoroughly Renaissance Man.

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We hoped to find a more modern hero at UVA. The man who first ran the four-minute mile in national intercollegiate competition, my grandfather, Forrest Quillian Stanton. This was an especially noteworthy feat as it was generally believed that we wouldn’t run that fast. Once accomplished once, many sprinters quickly began to run faster than that. The old gym, where he must have almost lived as a competitor in track, baseball and american football, is still inviting but held no acknowledgement of past era athletes.

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The Alumni Center was closed so I photographed the Serpentine Wall, one of many sites on the UVA campus I learned about as a child…on china plates at brought out for fancy dessert as I was growing up.

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We enjoyed Charlottesville’s highlights from the Albermarle Bakery (sour, moist, chewy sourdough bread made from apple cider) at one end of the pedestrian mall, Roasted Vegetable Pizza piled high at Christian’s in the middle of the mall (three tables of firefighters must know the best pizza in town), and an espresso near the tented exhibition site at the far end. We will miss the annual Tom-Tom Indoor/Outdoor Music Festival later in April featuring 60 bands playing jazz, blues, rock, bluegrass, classical, and world music.

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We stayed in the Belmont Neighborhood, walking distance to this big tent and pedestrian mall, with our friend and kind hostess Jennifer. I met her sailing together on SV Rot Kat in the Bay of Banderas, Nayarit, Mexico; so great to deepen our friendship just by showing up in her town.

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We headed off from her arty loft to the Shenandoah Mountains. The snow on the ground in Charlottesville just got deeper as we climbed in elevation. Too gusty for a real hike, we instead had a snowball fight on the Appalachian Trail.

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Steven was a baseball pitcher as a boy….good thing he is accurate and hit me but missed my camera…otherwise, he would have owed sexual favors for at least a year!

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